We’ve just launched Issue 3 of Jarry, and the past six months flew by so quickly that I missed my appropriate window of opportunity to share a favorite recipe from Issue 2. So before it’s too late, this is a quiet but great recipe from our magazine, one that readers might miss because as it’s incorporated into a photo series where spice blends are applied to the lips of models. Think about it… lips… spices…. blend!
Anyway, Andy Baraghani—a senior food editor at Bon Appetit who, in his recipes there and elsewhere, has always challenged and inspired my cooking—developed this recipe for us at Jarry. It’s very, very simple, inspired, he says, by the sweet-spicy-sour flavors employed at the restaurant El Rey here in New York. Continue reading
I’ve been spending a lot of time at the grocery store. Not shopping, but standing there behind a little sample table, proselytizing my Made by Lukas veggie burgers. I walk into the store and press play on the soundbite that’s tattooed into my brain—”Care to try a fresh vegetable veggie burger? Here, have a taste! These are Made-by-Lukas fresh-vegetable-veggie-burgers! The orange one is Carrot-Parsnip, the red one is beet. Yes, absolutely please do try both! Eighty percent fresh, locally sourced vegetables—our kitchen is up in the Hudson Valley—and quinoa, seeds, millet, and spices make up the rest! No soy! No wheat! Right over there in the cold case next to the tofu!” Repeat a thousand times.
And when I walk out, it takes about an hour before I can turn it off. Don’t get me wrong. I like—I love—these veggie burgers, and I’m proud of the product and even the spiel. It’s incredibly exciting to introduce them to the eaters who are going to get them and love them as I do, and gratifying when that happens. And while it’s occasionally exhausting, it’s mostly amusing when I step back to assess: So this is where my life has taken me. How interesting.
This week I found myself with a funny challenge in my refrigerator: about 10 cups of leftover cooked bulgur. (The “how” isn’t that interesting—I overdid it preparing for a demonstration at the wonderful Pine Island Farmers Market over the weekend.) I was at a loss. What would you do with this much bulgur? That’d be a lot of tabbouleh to eat, let alone my Bulgur Salad with Kale and Feta, which was its original purpose.
In my quest to use it up (I’m still not done), I tried a few things: I sautéed some scallions, ginger, and garlic in olive oil, then added broccoli and kale and bulgur for something of a bulgur pilaf. I made a quick sauce from garlic, harissa, olive oil, and crushed tomatoes and stirred in the bulgur in the end, and then finished it off with a plop of yogurt and a drizzle of bright green olive oil. Then the other morning I made a twist on halwa—I stirred the bulgur into a bit of browned butter (ghee would have been more appropriate) and added some warm spices and white raisins and served it for breakfast—per Elaine S.’s recommendation on Twitter. All of these were great, but they didn’t put much of a dent in my supply. I needed to get creative. Continue reading
When I was a kid, cinnamon toast was one of my favorite after-school snacks. We had a little crock that we kept the cinnamon sugar in, and it came with its own little ladle. I took special pride in being the one to make more of it whenever it ran low—I’d just fill up the crock with mostly sugar, and then mix in ground cinnamon until the color was right. Then I’d toast up a slice of bread, spread a thin layer of . . . spreadable margarine (this was the 80s after all), shower it with my cinnamon sugar, and eat it in front of daytime TV (pre- Rosie O’Donnell Show, this included Matlock, Murphy Brown, and/or Designing Women, listed here in order of preference).
A few weeks ago I attended a class with Marie Simmons at the Whole Foods near me. She’s the author of dozens of cookbooks, and the most recent one, which she was in town to promote, is Fresh & Fast Vegetarian. As she explained early on, it’s hard to make “fast” vegetarian food, especially when it’s “fresh,” because of all the chopping and cleaning. This is something I’ve been slow to publicly acknowledge about vegetarian cooking, lest it deter anyone from the kitchen. But she decided to use the challenge as the basis of her book.
Marie Simmons has a bubbly persona and her attention seems to zip around like a humming bird, which, combined with her undeniable authority (James Beard and IACP Awards, a Bon Appétit column to her name, among many other accomplishments), makes her a lot of fun. As the Whole Foods organizer of the event put it, she’s “the gold star of cookbook authors,” and in that vein Fresh and Fast Vegetarian doesn’t disappoint. Continue reading