We’ve just launched Issue 3 of Jarry, and the past six months flew by so quickly that I missed my appropriate window of opportunity to share a favorite recipe from Issue 2. So before it’s too late, this is a quiet but great recipe from our magazine, one that readers might miss because as it’s incorporated into a photo series where spice blends are applied to the lips of models. Think about it… lips… spices…. blend!
Anyway, Andy Baraghani—a senior food editor at Bon Appetit who, in his recipes there and elsewhere, has always challenged and inspired my cooking—developed this recipe for us at Jarry. It’s very, very simple, inspired, he says, by the sweet-spicy-sour flavors employed at the restaurant El Rey here in New York. Continue reading
A few years ago, when I was doing my final tests of this recipe—one of my favorites from Bowl—it was peak August. My poorly ventilated apartment was very much a sweat lodge, and the last thing I wanted to do was bring a pot of liquid to simmer. But I had no choice. I was on deadline. I’d learned in my research about the principle—popular throughout many East Asian cuisines—of battling hot food with hot weather, but as I sat over this bowl of steaming “summer” ramen, my hair, face, and clothes matted with sweat, I didn’t buy it.
Then I took a taste. It was so good! So clear with summeriness, such a glorious, fresh way to show off those juicy, late-summer gems. Did it help to make the heat more bearable? Perhaps. At the very least I was temporarily distracted from it. Nonetheless, I was excited to make it this year, and I’ll look forward to it next, too. Continue reading
As you know, not much needs to be done to a tomato when it’s perfectly ripe. Salt, pepper, maybe some olive oil. Still, it’s nice to shake things up a little—but maintain that same spirit of simplicity. An easy dish I like is thick slices of ripe tomato sprinkled with soy sauce, scallions, and pepper, maybe a little bit of grated ginger. The following recipe is an evolution of that idea: I applied butter and heat.
It’s one of those 5-minute recipes that hardly merit an actual recipe. Chopped tomatoes get a quick stir in a hot skillet, along with a little butter and a few aromatics. But it blossoms into something more than the sum of its parts. Soy sauce gives ripe tomatoes a lovely savory depth, especially with the slight caramelizing that happens in the hot pan. Fresh ginger brings a little burn. And that brief application of heat in the pan makes the tomatoes extra succulent. Continue reading
This week I shared a new recipe for tofu burgers on Food52. Back when I wrote Veggie Burgers Every Which Way I wasn’t as enthusiastic about tofu as I am now, now that I’ve spent a lot more time enjoying it on its own and in the myriad of delicious ways that it appears in dishes across many Asian cuisines. So I revisited the tofu burger with the intent of making the tofu shine, and incorporated a few great tricks like grating it for a lighter, less tacky texture. Head over to Food52 for the write-up and the recipe, as well as for photos by the excellent Spencer Starnes.
And after the jump, my easiest and favorite way to quick-pickle onions and cucumbers, which will be a welcome accompaniment to all of your Memorial Day ‘que spreads this weekend and through the summer. Can’t believe it’s here already…
Over the weekend I shared a story on Medium about a “luncheon” that my mom threw, and her favorite cookbook Bound to Please. In that story, the quiche I describe is Mom’s go-to quiche—a quiche Lorraine, made with ham of course, but also with a Pillsbury pie crust and two different kinds of pre-shredded cheese. Here’s the one that I made myself on Mother’s Day.
There was a time when I thought it was a good idea to try to make quiche a little less dairy rich, more egg-oriented—”healthier.” But that might have been the last time I made quiche (it’s been a while). Since then I’ve come to recognize it for the decadent dish it is and rather than trying to tweak it to be marginally less rich, I think I’d rather just eat it less often, reserve it for special occasions.
I stumbled on these muffins when I was flipping—well, scrolling—through old issues of Feast by Lukas and I remembered how good and easy they were. Sturdy but tender, and just under-sweetened enough sans glaze to pass as breakfast, but with it, you’ve got a casual dessert. And like most muffins it’s a simple process of stirring the wet ingredients into the dry ones, then popping them into the oven. I made them with walnuts last weekend, but hazelnuts and almonds are also great.
I’ve just returned from a quick-but-long trip down the west coast, from Vancouver (BC), to Seattle, to San Francisco. Quick because it was only a week and a day, but long because it felt like much more—which is how I think trips ought to be. In Vancouver, Creative Director Steve and I saw the next issue of Jarry printed. (Above is the cover, fresh off the press, featuring Nik Sharma in a portrait by Patrick Byrnes.) There wasn’t a lot of free time to eat, but lunch at Nelson the Seagull was a standout.
For Seattle and SF I got a lot of enthusiastic recommendations from friends and colleagues. I thought I’d share some of the highlights here, gallery-style. I’d wanted this trip to be as much about the eating as possible, so it’s got a decadent slant. (It turns out I don’t really have the stomach for this style of travel, because at many points I craved only a smoothie, but I persevered. There are times in life to indulge and this, I decided, was one of them.)
L to R: Charred baby leeks with lime and dried yogurt at Bar Ferdinand (Seattle); pancake decadence topped with ricotta and lemon curd at Talullah’s (Seattle); 2 scoops of ice cream from Kurt Farm Shop, tomato jam and Flora’s Cheese (Seattle).
What an exciting few weeks it’s been! Thank you for supporting Bowl—the reception has really blown me away. I apologize if I’ve already inundated you with these news items on other social media channels, but if you missed any of it, check out this New York Times article that still has me feeling faint, and bowls in Vogue, and then a few pieces I wrote for Food52: on Dashi, and Vegetarian Pho Broth, and, finally, The Anatomy of a Broth Bowl. (All these links have recipes.) Lastly, if you live in or near Seattle, I hope you’ll stop by Book Larder next Friday.
In spring I always crave kimchi, in part because the dismal farmers market offerings leave me wanting color and assertive flavor, and in part because spring cleaning and probiotics seem to go hand in hand. You probably know that kimchi is a whole category of fermented foods beyond just Napa cabbage, and this carrot version—inspired by the nubby little carrots I did find at the market, though they’re likely the dregs of last fall’s crop—is one I’ve been tinkering with for a few weeks. Continue reading