Big Beans with Charred Zucchini & Tomato
This final gasp of summer—record screech: Summer? Aren’t we still waiting for summer to start? Or wasn’t summer, like, a couple years ago or something? The passing of time has been such mind game, whizzing and crawling by at once. But I check the calendar, check the weather, check my watch, and there it is: Somehow it’s September. There was delicata squash at the farmer’s market, which means that it’s true.
Last week, I’d have eyed a nice tomato or sweet pepper or peach on the counter and thought, better save that for something more special. This week, it’s clear that there’s no time to waste, and the following recipe represents the shift. I’d set out to make the charred zucchini and big bean salad from my Rancho Gordo “Heirloom Bean Kitchen” recipe booklet (here’s the archive of my talk with Steve Sando and Julia Newberry from a few weeks ago—it was such a treat to be part of that), and with a big, brandywine tomato sitting there before me, so juicy I could burst it with a pin, I knew I needed to throw it into whatever I was cooking. It nearly turned my salad into soup, in a good way, that one silly little tweak changing the vibe of the dish entirely.
Readers of Start Simple know that I’m partial to salting and draining my zucchini prior to cooking it, as this, in my tests and experience, always results in a more tender, less mushy texture. But here’s a newer-to-me zucchini method, which my friend Ben Mims taught me two summers ago (and that Andy Baraghani taught him). You just char the dry vegetable over a hot flame—the grill, broiler, or a gas burner—and once it’s blistered and covered in black splotches, and a paring knife test proves it tender, it’s done. It’s so easy, and lends smoky notes to whatever treatment the zucchini is destined for. Any sized zucchini would work here, but the smaller ones of course will cook faster.
Big Beans with Charred Zucchini and Tomatoes
This is a dish for the big-bean lovers—I’m talking about limas, Italian gigantes, royal coronas. They always feel so hearty in a vegetarian main, whether as part of a baked dish, or pan-fried ‘til crispy, or in some kind of salad like this one. Here, they oomph up some of the zucchini and tomato summer bounty, and get a whiff of distinction with one of my favorite pairings: zucchini + tender herbs + floral nuts (almonds or pistachios, which are sadly missing from the pic above). For my original recipe (Grilled Toasts with Zucchini and Big Beans), I spooned this salad over thick slices of really good grilled bread, which I highly recommend if you have some on hand.
Serves 4
12 ounces small-to-medium-sized zucchini (2 to 4, depending on size)
2 cups (about 8 ounces, dried) cooked big beans (Limas, Gigante, Royal Coronas), drained*
1 large or 2 medium ripe, flavorful, juicy tomato(es), cut into chunks
1 clove garlic, finely grated or minced
Big pinch chili flakes
1 to 2 lemons
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
2 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra for drizzling
Heaping ¼ cup chopped, fresh tender herbs: basil, dill, parsley, mint, fennel fronds, cilantro
¼ cup coarsely chopped roasted pistachios or almonds
Char the zucchini: Prepare a medium-high flame and preheat your grill. When hot, place the zucchini directly over the flames and cook, turning periodically, until blackened all over and the zucchini is tender, which will take anywhere from 10 to 25 minutes, depending on their size. (No need to trim your zucchini or rub it with olive oil.) If you don’t have access to a grill, you can use this same method by cooking the zucchini over a gas burner or under the broiler, close to the heat source. Transfer to a cutting board to cool until safe to handle, then coarsely chop into pieces about the size of the lima beans.
In a mixing bowl, combine the zucchini with the beans, tomato, garlic, pepper flakes, the zest and juice of 1 lemon, white wine vinegar, and 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Season to taste with salt, then add more lemon juice if needed. I think this is best with an almost aggressive amount of lemon. Just before serving, stir the herbs and nuts. Serve with spoons at room temperature, or if the beans are freshly cooked, it’s also delicious warm.
*To cook big beans: When people think of the “big beans,” they often think of a starchy texture—which can be a good trait—but as I learned in the Rancho Gordo Heirloom Bean Guide, if you keep cooking them past the starchy stage, they get deliciously creamy. Soak the beans for 4 hours or so. Cover them with fresh water, about 1/4 cup olive oil, a few bay leaves, and 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, then bring to a boil. Boil for 5 minutes, then lower the heat to a gentle simmer, partially cover the pan, and let them cook slowly, stirring every now and then… until they’re done. It may take 45 minutes, it may take 3 hours. You’ll have to be patient! Add additional water as needed to keep them submerged, and taste for seasoning. Store them in an airtight container in the bean-cooking liquid.