Corn Tofu

Ever since I first heard about the Donabe Smoker sold on the TOIRO website, I’ve been itching to get one of my own. I haven’t—yet—but until I do, I regularly admire all the beautiful donabe and other products and peruse the rest of their site, which is where I discovered a recipe for cold corn tofu. It’s not what I thought of at first—corn and tofu—but tofu, made with corn, and it intrigued me.

It falls on the silken tofu side of the tofu spectrum, a bit like panna cotta (though it has no cream in it) or even a steamed egg custard (though it has no eggs in it). It’s set with kudzu (or in my case arrowroot powder), and comes together very quickly. Sweet, ripe, seasonal corn is essential, as that’s the only flavor here, and likewise, it’s a truly perfect summer appetizer or first course because it’s so cooling and deliciously creamy.

In addition to cooking it in a saucepan rather than a donabe, I took the liberty here of using a corncob-infused dashi (like I do with my summer ramen in Bowl) for the liquid, rather than just water. It imparts a slightly stronger, more savory flavor that’s different and very good but not necessarily better— water is also very good and results in a very pure, sweet corn flavor. Also I wasn’t able to find kudzu starch, so I used arrowroot powder, with good results. (In case you’re considering substituting cornstarch—it’ll be grainy and won’t set and it doesn’t work.)

Naoko Takei Moore, aka Mrs. Donabe, the creator of the recipe, suggests garnishing this with wasabi and a slice of steamed okra. I felt reminded by the cold tofu with soy-sauced tomatoes in Start Simple, and opted for a really ripe Early Girl tomato warmed up with a dab of chili crisp. The contrast of the cold custard and warm tomatoes just does it for me. I’d say get a little creative with the garnishes, as long as you don’t use too heavy a hand.

Corn Tofu

Source: Naoko Takei Moore’s Cold Corn Tofu, on TOIRO
Serves 6 as starter

1 medium-large corn cob, shucked
1 strip kombu (about 4 inches long by 1- to 2-inches wide)
Salt
Water
3 tablespoons kudzu or arrowroot powder

Garnish suggestion
1 medium ripe tomato, diced
1 teaspoon chili crisp
1 scallion, thinly sliced

Trim off the corn kernels: Lay the corn flat on a cutting board, and with a sturdy chef’s knife, cutting as close to the cob as possible, shave a long slab of kernels off. Turn it so that newly-flat surface is now keeping it steady on the cutting board and continue shaving off all the rest of the kernels. Hold the cob upright and use the knife to trim off any remaining bits of corn and juicy bits, then transfer all the kernels to a blender pitcher.

Make the corn dashi (see note above—you can also just use water in place of the dashi): Place the corncob in a medium saucepan and cover with 4 cups of water. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 10 minutes. Add the kombu and 1 teaspoon salt and remove from the heat. Let steep for 20-30 minutes, then strain. You’ll need just 1 cup of the dashi, but you can freeze the rest to use in soup, risotto, or to add to a batch of vegetable broth.

To make the corn tofu: Combine the corn kernels and 1 cup of the corn dashi (or water) in a blender. Thoroughly blend until smooth. If using water, season with 3/4 teaspoon salt, if not, taste and add additional salt if needed. Transfer to a medium saucepan (or donabe) and whisk in the kudzu or arrowroot powder. Place over medium heat, whisking constantly, and once the mixture begins to thicken, reduce the heat to a gentle gurgle. Stir frequently to prevent scorching, and cook for 10 to 15 minutes, until glossy and fragrant and the thickness of a loose pudding.

Scrape the mixture into a small, rectangular baking dish or divide between ramekins or small bowls. Let cool, then transfer to the fridge to chill thoroughly—at least a few hours. To serve, slice cold tofu into rectangles or squares and garnish as you please.

To make the spicy tomato garnish: Combine the tomato and chili crisp in a small saucepan, and warm briefly—just until heated through and the tomato begins to soften. Spoon the warm tomatoes over the cold tofu, and garnish with a sprinkle of scallions.