Picnic Broccoli Salad
One of our excursions earlier this summer was up to my hometown Boise, Idaho, and it included a stop at my favorite grocery store, the Boise Co-Op. This is where I first discovered the bulk bin aisle, and it’s permanently lodged in my memory for always having the most exciting prepared foods offerings in the city. Little about the grocery store has changed, thankfully.
We picked up a tub of broccoli salad for our return trip home, and it was a marvel. The broccoli seemed raw and its dressing was barely detectable — yet the salad was flavorful and full of delicious texture. I came to find out it was a version of the Southern or Amish Broccoli Salad that’s well known and well loved across the United States: raw (or very briefly blanched) broccoli florets, a sweet and tangy mayonnaise-based dressing, raisins or other dried fruit, bacon, and sometimes cheese.
I decided to riff, ultimately landing on this vegan version, which includes a rich and sweet-savory miso dressing, diced dates, and as a bacon substitute (that first crossed my radar in this Emma Laperruque recipe), crumbled up barbecue potato chips on top! I imagine the thick-cut Dang coconut chips would make a great substitute, too. True to the original, this is really a perfect summer dish for picnics and potlucks and any other instance where it’s helpful to make ahead. Just save the crunchy garnishes for just before serving.
Picnic Broccoli Salad
A spin on the classic “Southern” or Amish Broccoli Salad that skips the mayo and finds punchy, creamy richness in a miso-based dressing. Some versions of this salad use raw broccoli, but I prefer a very brief blanching; if you opt for raw, just be sure to dry the broccoli thoroughly after washing — by blotting with a towel, or running through your salad spinner several times — before tossing it with dressing. It’s also very make-ahead friendly, since the flavors improve as they sit, and is best served well chilled.
Serves 4 to 6
About 2 pounds broccoli (1 bunch), preferably with the stalks
¼ of a small red onion, sliced into paper-thin strips
Pinch salt
Pinch sugar
¼ cup light-flavored oil (avocado, grapeseed, mild olive oil)
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
1½ tablespoons light-colored miso paste
2 teaspoons dijon mustard
1½ teaspoons runny honey
3 dates, pitted and diced
⅓ cup coarsely chopped, deeply toasted cashews
A big handful thick-cut barbecue flavor potato chips
Separate the broccoli stems from the crowns, then trim the crowns into small florets and pieces. They don’t need to all be perfect little florets; small pieces of the stems (where its skin is tender) are also fine. Discard about a half inch of the dry, cut-end of the stalk, and then use a sharp chef’s knife to thickly peel the fibrous outer skin off. Then cut it into small pieces, about the same size as the florets.
Bring a pot of water to boil. Add the broccoli and blanch for only 30 seconds, which won’t even be enough time for the water to return to boil – the goal is to retain plenty of crunch, and you only need to take the raw edge off. Drain in a colander and rinse under cold water. Then dry very thoroughly by blotting with a clean towel or running through the salad spinner several times.
Place the onion in a large mixing bowl with the sugar and salt, and use your fingers to mix them together. Set aside while you prepare the dressing.
Use a handheld or small blender (or a whisk and a small bowl) to combine the oil, vinegar, miso, mustard, and honey into a thick, glossy dressing.
Add the dry broccoli, dates, and dressing to the onions and stir to combine. If you have time, chill the salad for a few hours in the refrigerator. Just before serving, add the cashews, and crumble the potato chips over the top.